Frequently Asked Questions

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Q)I am a novice. Is it difficult to learn this?

A) This is an age old controversial question in the asphalt sealcoating application industry. Keep in mind that sand, like any abrasive material, will deteriorate ALL equipment it is used in. For example, sand in nature causes natural erosion to the environment. Sand is commonly used for sandblasting paints and concrete surfaces. Sand is used in sandpaper for the purpose of wearing away surfaces. Be careful of someone who says that sand does not hurt their equipment. FOR MORE INFORMATION ON THIS SUBJECT CLICK THIS LINK

Q)I am a novice. Is it difficult to learn this?

A) You will be provided with a demonstration of spraying techniques ; This will give you the skills and confidence you need to start spraying.

Q) On average, how much coverage can I get with 1 gallon of sealer?

A) One gallon of sealer will cover about 65sq. feet.

Q) How long does a sealed driveway take to dry?

A) You can walk on the asphalt in 2 hours but it is recommended not to drive on it for 24 hours.

Q) At what temperature can you spray asphalt?

A) It is recommended that it be 60 degrees Fahrenheit.

Q) How do you price driveways to seal?

A) This will vary but generally it is 10 cents per square foot.

Q) How do you repair cracks?

A) Preparing cracks for repair:

Crack filling prior to advanced failure can be the most cost effective preventive maintance to asphalt pavement. If done properly and timely crack filling can add many years to the functional life of an asphalt pavement. The general intention of any crack preparation is to create a clean dry reservoir area for the crack sealant to adhere to the walls of the crack. Crack should be cleaned out with a wire broom or wire wheel to create an ample reservoir. Next fill crack with either hot or cold pour material. Smooth off excess with squeegee.

Q) What technique would I use for spraying the top of the driveway near the house?

A) Always use a blocker board here. This is called cutting the driveway in, you need to use care. Place the board up to the edge closest to the house and make sure to spray only the length of it. Move board along and spray until you reach the end. This will ensure that sealer does not accidentally get sprayed on the building.

Q) How do you control the amount of sealer you apply?

A) BASICALLY THIS IS DONE THROUGH THE COORDINATED MOVEMENT OF THE SPRAY WAND. You will quickly learn to use different motions to adjust your spray pattern and coverage rate. Height of the spray wand also affects the application. Raising the wand higher creates a lighter spray across a wider area. Lowering the wand has the opposites affect narrowing the pattern and applying a thicker coat. The speed at which you sweep the wand affects the amount of sealer applied as well. It is important to keep the wand moving at all times. (It is a good idea to clean your tips frequently)

Q) What do you do about oil spots?

A) Most oil spots can be successfully treated with an oil spot primer; the primer creates a barrier between the oil spot and the sealer enabling the sealer to adhere to the asphalt. Clean up oil with an absorbent as best as possible. Pour primer on spot and let dry. Drying time -1 or 2 minutes.

Q) How often should a driveway be sealed?

A) Sealcoating is a way to protect the asphalt. It is a good rule of thumb to sealcoat every 1 to 2 years. This provides a consistently high level of protection for the asphalt, ensuring that it will last longer.

Reasons to seal asphalt?

Research has demonstrated that properly applied (and properly timed) sealcoat can save the owner of a property $100,000 or more - over the life of a hot mix asphalt pavement. But what does seal-coat actually do that results in this substantial savings?

Asphalt is a very complex mixture of thousands of chemicals which are predominantly open chain (aliphatic) in structure with a considerable degree of un-saturation within their molecular structure. The open chain provides easy access to weather, salts, and chemicals to attack and disintegrate the asphaltic molecules. As the asphaltic molecules disintegrate, the asphalt in the pavement loses much of its original properties, such as binding and waterproofing. The first visual sign of this phenomenon is a progressive change in the color of asphalt pavement from rich black to brown to gray.

Furthermore, asphalt, being a by-product of the petroleum distillation process, is easily dissolved by other products that also are derived from petroleum, such as oils, fats, grease, mineral spirits etc. The reason is quite logical: As petroleum, these various products existed together for millions of years. It is only through the petroleum refining process that they are separated for various uses. Because these individual products come from the same source, they have a natural affinity for one another and when put in contact with each other will try to join together again. So when automotive oil or gasoline - both petroleum distillates - leak onto an asphalt pavement, they will work to easily dissolve the similar chemicals in asphalt. These problems are associated primarily with off-street pavements such as parking lots, minor streets, airport aprons or runways, service stations, and home driveways, which carry low levels of traffic.

Roads, having the advantage of continuously rolling traffic, do not need protection because the rolling action of the traffic steadily brings the lower layers, rich in asphalt, to the surface and "kneads" the oxidized surface layers back into the pavement. Eventually all the asphalt binder is exhausted and the aggregates begin to unravel due to the absence of the binding cement. This happens to all pavement including roads. The rate of pavement deterioration depends upon the traffic volume as well as climatic conditions.

The next step is the development of minor cracks which widen and deepen with time. If the cracks are not repaired at this stage, water seeps into the base courses and damages the pavement's load bearing capacity. It is evidenced by rutting, shifting, and serious alligatoring. The pavement then must be either overlaid or completely removed and reinstalled, depending on the condition.

Off-street pavements do not have the advantage of this "kneading" action. The surface layers of off-road pavements are under continuous attack from the weather and other destructive elements, eventually developing minor surface cracks. Again, aggregates start unraveling producing minor cracks which widen and deepen with time. The damage will continue if proper protective actions are not taken. So it would be logical to conclude that off-street pavements can be preserved by a "protective coating" that resists attack by the elements that destroy the asphalt in the first place.